El blog de Marc Bernabé

Natsuko no sake (El sake de Natsuko)

  • Título: 夏子の酒 –Natsuko no sake– (El sake de Natsuko)
  • Autor: Akira Oze
  • Editorial: Kōdasha
  • Revista: Morning
  • Años publicación: 1988-1991
  • Clasificación: costumbrista
  • Tomos: 12

Los que me seguís en redes sociales ya sabéis que en los últimos dos años o así me he convertido en un apasionado del sake, el “licor de arroz” típico japonés. Todo empezó a raíz de traducir el tomo 2 de la edición de Norma de Oishinbo, el manga especializado en cocina japonesa: durante esa traducción, que fue durísima pero me encantó, aprendí una cantidad de datos incomensurable sobre sake. Variedades, calidades, fabricación, conservación, modos de servirlo, etcétera. No puedo decir que me haya convertido en un experto, porque no es así ni mucho menos, pero lo que sí es seguro es que ahora mismo seguramente seré una de las pocas personas en todo el país que tienen un conocimiento relativamente profundo del sake. Tampoco es tan difícil, ya que, lamentablemente, ¿a cuánta gente conocéis que pueda contaros en qué consiste la –abismal– diferencia entre un sanzōshu y un daiginjō? Es una lástima, pero espero que, a lo largo del tiempo, la gente de aquí pueda empezar a apreciar el buen sake, ya que el mundo del sake no tiene nada que envidiar al de, por poner un ejemplo de una bebida igualmente fermentada, el vino. ¡La variedad de calidades, sabores y matices del sake resulta sorprendente!

El hecho de que uno de mis amigos, Roger Ortuño de comerjapones.com se haya convertido en el único sumiller de sake de origen no japonés en toda la península ibérica, y haya sido nombrado, entre otras cosas, Embajador de Buena Voluntad de la Gastronomía Japonesa, especializándose muchísimo en sake y compartiendo algunos de sus conocimientos conmigo, ha ayudado mucho en este “boom particular” del sake. De un tiempo a esta parte, cada vez que voy a Japón procuro degustar todo tipo de sake y aprender más sobre él, e incluso hace poco tuve el privilegio de visitar una bodega de sake acompañado del maestro tōji (máximo responsable de la producción de sake) de dicha bodega.

Como siempre que siento curiosidad sobre algún tema en concreto lo primero que hago es intentar conseguir más datos: si es posible, en forma de manga, ya que lo considero una forma ideal de aprender mientras pasas un buen rato leyendo. Una de las obras que más he disfrutado durante el parón del blog ha sido Natsuko no sake (El sake de Natsuko). Esta es una obra, como tantas, que ya conocía de antes, de nombre, pero no había tenido oportunidad de leer todavía.

Pues bien, me puse a ello y disfruté muchísimo, aprendiendo una cantidad ingente de cosas durante el proceso. Esta es la historia de Natsuko Saeki, una joven que es hija del dueño de una bodega de sake. En principio, la bodega la va a heredar su hermano mayor, que es un gran apasionado del sake y, cómo no –esto es un manga, amigos–, aspira a fabricar el mejor de los sakes posibles. Para ello, después de investigar mucho, consigue encontrar una variedad de arroz que se creía perdida, llamada tatsunishiki, y que, pese a ser ideal para la producción de sake, se dejó de utilizar porque su cultivo era extremadamente complicado y, a los agricultores de antaño, les daba más problemas que otra cosa, por lo que pasaron a cultivar arroz más sencillo de manejar.

Natsuko catando el sake que se produce en su bodega.

Cuando el hermano lo tiene todo listo para empezar la operación de fabricar ese “mejor sake de Japón”, ocurre el gran drama, como suele pasar en los mangas: el joven cae enfermo y muere. Entonces, Natsuko decide que, en memoria de su hermano, hará todo lo posible por seguir y completar su sueño.

Así empieza la historia de Natsuko, una veinteañera sin apenas conocimientos de fabricación de sake (aunque a sumiller no la gana nadie, ya que tiene una experiencia, un paladar y una resistencia al alcohol increíbles) que tendrá que luchar contra viento y marea, y contra las tendencias de la industria japonesa del momento (finales de los 80, principios de los 90) de “cantidad sobre calidad”, para crear ese nuevo sake a partir del arroz tatsunishiki. Para ello, lo primero que tendrá que hacer es cultivar los pocos granos del arroz que consiguió su hermano para conseguir, en un par de años, suficiente cantidad de arroz como para iniciar la producción de sake. Y así es el primer gran arco argumental de este manga: la pugna de Natsuko por, por un lado, conseguir una primera cosecha (¡al final tendrá que cultivar el arroz ella misma!) y, por el otro, convencer a la cooperativa agraria de que cultivar el tatsunishiki, y con ello renunciar a cualquier tipo de ayuda externa en forma de pesticidas y abonos químicos, es la mejor idea posible.

Una vez superado este escollo, cosa que no resulta nada fácil debido a la cabezonería de los agricultores, Natsuko tendrá que trabajar codo con codo junto al tōji para, sin dejar de producir sake “normal” (ya que la bodega es una empresa y no puede permitirse el lujo de paralizar toda la producción por un “capricho de la niña”), embarcarse en la creación de ese sake supremo fabricado a partir del arroz tatsunishiki. En medio de todo esto, por supuesto, todo tipo de aventuras, desengaños, algún que otro escarceo amoroso, rivalidades y mucho, mucho, mucho esfuerzo.

Lo mejor

  • Aunque manida, la historia entretiene y el dibujo la acompaña muy bien.
  • Lo que se aprende sobre el cultivo de arroz y la fabricación de sake vale su peso en oro.

Lo peor

  • Sinceramente, es una historia bastante previsible, aunque no por ello menos interesante.

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19 Comments »

Comment by ComerJapones.com
2017-03-01 13:01:47

También conocía el título, pero nunca lo había leído. ¿Es un único tomo o una colección entera?
Cambio cata de sake por préstamo del libro. 😉

 
Comment by Marc Bernabe
2017-03-01 13:28:27

12 tomos! ^_^

 
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